• site home
  • blog home
  • galleries
  • contact
  • underwater
  • the bleeding edge

the last word

Photography meets digital computer technology. Photography wins -- most of the time.

You are here: Home / The Last Word / Loctite, the photographer’s friend

Loctite, the photographer’s friend

May 17, 2012 JimK 2 Comments

Since I’ve been doing the slit scan photographs, I’ve been spending a lot more time using my tripods. Since I now use a tripod four or five times a day, I’m having more problems with various bits loosening up and occasionally falling off.

There’s a way to deal with most of these problems: compounds that are made to keep threaded parts in place. The most prominent set of products goes under the brand name Loctite. They been around since the 50s and may have invented the product category. In the early 60s when I was working in a summer job as assistant to a mechanical engineer, I used the stuff a lot.

In those days, we used Loctite to make sure that threads wouldn’t ever come undone; we considered it a permanent fix. Nowadays you can get Loctite with various degrees of permanence. There are only two – well maybe two and a half – that are of interest to photographers wanting to get control of their tripods.

The first is what the manufacturer refers to as Low Strength. This is the perfect material for keeping hand assembled things from coming undone. I use it on tripod feet. I don’t know about you, but I always use the soft rubber feet that the tripod comes with, never changing them out for the hard pointy things you use on rock surfaces, or the flat pucks you use in the studio. I just want the feet to stay where they are: without some help, they don’t do that. The low strength Loctite is a perfect way to make sure I come back from the field with all of the tripod feet that I left with. Why not the permanent Loctite? The little rubber feet might wear out someday.

The second is the medium strength material, which is great for attaching Arco Swiss receiver to ball heads, and, if you don’t change camera plates a lot, for attaching camera plates to camera bodies and lenses.

The half is the permanent stuff. I’ve never been in a photographic situation where I’m completely confident that I’ll never want to get a threaded connection apart, but, if you’re sure, go for it.

 

The Last Word

← What’s a pixel? How many tones above the midpoint in your camera’s histogram? →

Comments

  1. Renee Chavarria says

    December 5, 2012 at 4:54 pm

    We’ve been reading your blog and have been very impressed with the quality of your information and the service you provide to your readers. A company like ours is always happy to find another reliable data source that both our customers and we can use. Please let us know if there is anything we can provide that would support your efforts, whether that is adding you to our distribution list or having someone available to answer any questions or provide additional knowledge to your blog.

    Let me know if there is a good time we can call you to discuss how Loctite can assist you in what you are doing.

    Regards,

    Renee Chavarria
    360 Business Consulting for Loctite
    rchavarria@360-biz.com
    949-916-9120 Ext. 275

    Reply
  2. Jim says

    December 5, 2012 at 5:07 pm

    How ’bout it folks? Any Loctite questions that you’ve always wanted to ask if you could find an expert?

    Reply

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

May 2025
S M T W T F S
 123
45678910
11121314151617
18192021222324
25262728293031
« Apr    

Articles

  • About
    • Patents and papers about color
    • Who am I?
  • How to…
    • Backing up photographic images
    • How to change email providers
    • How to shoot slanted edge images for me
  • Lens screening testing
    • Equipment and Software
    • Examples
      • Bad and OK 200-600 at 600
      • Excellent 180-400 zoom
      • Fair 14-30mm zoom
      • Good 100-200 mm MF zoom
      • Good 100-400 zoom
      • Good 100mm lens on P1 P45+
      • Good 120mm MF lens
      • Good 18mm FF lens
      • Good 24-105 mm FF lens
      • Good 24-70 FF zoom
      • Good 35 mm FF lens
      • Good 35-70 MF lens
      • Good 60 mm lens on IQ3-100
      • Good 63 mm MF lens
      • Good 65 mm FF lens
      • Good 85 mm FF lens
      • Good and bad 25mm FF lenses
      • Good zoom at 24 mm
      • Marginal 18mm lens
      • Marginal 35mm FF lens
      • Mildly problematic 55 mm FF lens
      • OK 16-35mm zoom
      • OK 60mm lens on P1 P45+
      • OK Sony 600mm f/4
      • Pretty good 16-35 FF zoom
      • Pretty good 90mm FF lens
      • Problematic 400 mm FF lens
      • Tilted 20 mm f/1.8 FF lens
      • Tilted 30 mm MF lens
      • Tilted 50 mm FF lens
      • Two 15mm FF lenses
    • Found a problem – now what?
    • Goals for this test
    • Minimum target distances
      • MFT
      • APS-C
      • Full frame
      • Small medium format
    • Printable Siemens Star targets
    • Target size on sensor
      • MFT
      • APS-C
      • Full frame
      • Small medium format
    • Test instructions — postproduction
    • Test instructions — reading the images
    • Test instructions – capture
    • Theory of the test
    • What’s wrong with conventional lens screening?
  • Previsualization heresy
  • Privacy Policy
  • Recommended photographic web sites
  • Using in-camera histograms for ETTR
    • Acknowledgments
    • Why ETTR?
    • Normal in-camera histograms
    • Image processing for in-camera histograms
    • Making the in-camera histogram closely represent the raw histogram
    • Shortcuts to UniWB
    • Preparing for monitor-based UniWB
    • A one-step UniWB procedure
    • The math behind the one-step method
    • Iteration using Newton’s Method

Category List

Recent Comments

  • JimK on Goldilocks and the three flashes
  • DC Wedding Photographer on Goldilocks and the three flashes
  • Wedding Photographer in DC on The 16-Bit Fallacy: Why More Isn’t Always Better in Medium Format Cameras
  • JimK on Fujifilm GFX 100S II precision
  • Renjie Zhu on Fujifilm GFX 100S II precision
  • JimK on Fuji 20-35/4 landscape field curvature at 23mm vs 23/4 GF
  • Ivo de Man on Fuji 20-35/4 landscape field curvature at 23mm vs 23/4 GF
  • JimK on Fuji 20-35/4 landscape field curvature at 23mm vs 23/4 GF
  • JimK on Fuji 20-35/4 landscape field curvature at 23mm vs 23/4 GF
  • Ivo de Man on Fuji 20-35/4 landscape field curvature at 23mm vs 23/4 GF

Archives

Copyright © 2025 · Daily Dish Pro On Genesis Framework · WordPress · Log in

Unless otherwise noted, all images copyright Jim Kasson.